In accordance with their broadening attitudes toward grooming and aesthetics, men are buying more jewelry than they have in 30 years. Between 2004 and 2006 alone, annual sales of men’s jewelry doubled, according to Unity Marketing, a research firm in Stevens, Pennsylvania. And perhaps more importantly, this growth in sales reflects a change in how men perceive jewelry as a personal statement. More than half of the 1,052 men surveyed by Harris Interactive reported that they view grown men wearing jewelry—beyond watches, wedding bands, and cuff links—as “fashionable” and “sophisticated.”

Over the past few decades, men have associated wearing jewelry with either strict functionality or with unbecoming images like the gold-chain-laden ’70s swinger. These days, however, many men are finding a comfort zone between the extremes. Contributing to the cultural shift is the breakdown of the metrosexual stereotype: It is no longer exceptional for a man to take an active interest in how he looks. Not surprisingly, the rise of men’s jewelry correlates directly with increased sales of men’s apparel, accessories, and cosmetics.

Men’s increased attention to their appearance, and thus the growth in men’s jewelry, results from their amplified desire to make themselves noticeable to women. Milton Pedraza, chief executive of the Luxury Institute, suggests that “men are beginning to adorn themselves more because women are so much more self-sufficient and far more picky, and now men need to compete in a more Darwinian fashion.” Neil Patak, a 20-year-old college student, would seem to agree with Pedraza. In his efforts to court a young lady, he purchased a Dolce & Gabbana pendant for himself. Patak contends that it’s important “to distinguish yourself among the other guys with the girls—girls want to see something noteworthy.” Indeed, American Express concierges have fielded many requests for recommendations on men’s necklaces, including an antique Roman-coin pendant and black-diamond dog tag by jeweler David Yurman.

Celebrities are helping to drive the trend, too. Whether it’s a single bead on a cord worn by Ashton Kutcher, or the multiple pieces sported by David Beckham, the harbingers of cool are showing the average man that jewelry is not just acceptable, but fashionable. “I give rap the credit,” says Jay Bell, senior buyer of designer men’s collections for Barneys New York. “People like Diddy and Jay-Z started embracing it in the early ’90s, which has led to the popularity we’re seeing now.”

So when men wear jewelry, what do they wear? “Necklaces first,” Bell explains, “then bracelets, then rings.” Not all forms of jewelry are right for all men, and some men who’ve started wearing jewelry still don’t see it as appropriate for all situations, like job interviews.

Source: The Wall Street Journal, 2008, L.A. Times, 2008