The MicroFarm plant cabinet can successfully grow almost any type of crop indoors, including tomatoes, beans, lettuce, and herbs. The key to its success is the use of compact florescent fixtures, and an enclosed environment to maintain proper heat, to retain humidity and to prevent harsh, aesthetically unappealing light.

Parts List

Inexpensive wooden bookshelf (approx. 3 ½'h x 2'w x 1'deep)

(2) Sheets of ¼-inch plywood, each 4 feet by 4 feet

(4) Small cabinet hinges and mounting screws

(2) Door handles and mounting screws

(1) 2 foot length of 2x4 wood

(1) 120 volt computer fan (available from Radio Shack)

(4) 3 inch drywall screws (to attach fan to cabinet)

(8) Square feet aluminum foil or Mylar

(3) Porcelain light sockets

(1) 9 foot extension cord

(1) 6 foot extension cord

(1) Small appliance timer

(1) Multi-outlet tap (so you can plug two appliances into the timer

(3) Compact florescent lamps (25 Watts each)

(4) Eye hooks

(2) Curtain cleats

(10) Feet of nylon string

(1) Stick-on humidity gauge (optional)

(1) Stick-on thermometer (optional)

(32) ¾ inch brads (nails)

Electrical tape or heat shrink tubing

Tools

To build the MicroFarm Plant Cabinet, you will need the following tools:

Electric Jigsaw
Compass and pencil
Electric Drill (with a variety of bit sizes)
Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer
Staple gun (or double-faced tape)

Disclaimer Please Read

This article describes the use of electricity near water, the creation of a non-UL approved lighting fixture, the use of power tools, and lots of other things could be potentially hazardous. The instructions in this article are based on a project actually created by the author. However, in no way does the author warrant this information as being perfectly accurate or safe, nor does the author assume any responsibility or liability for any damage that occurs directly or indirectly by following these instructions. In short, use your best judgment and care.

Now that that's out of the way, let's begin…

Removing the middle shelf

The bookshelf used in this project stands 3'8". By removing the shelf second from the top, we opened a space of about 28" between the top shelf and the next shelf down. The shelf was held on with both screws and glue. After removing the screws, the shelf was easily removed by banging it with a hammer. After cracking the glue, the shelf slid out of the frame without much effort.

If your bookshelf is of different dimensions, don't worry. However, keep in mind that it is better to have slightly more space than less. In other words, it would be better for the space between the top shelf and the next lowest shelf to be greater than 28 inches, rather than less, since that will provide more growing space for the plants.

Installing the Fan

Because the growing area will be completely enclosed, it is necessary to ventilate the cabinet to prevent excessive heat buildup from the lamps and to reduce the risks of disease and insect pests. To do this, use computer-type fan we bought at Radio Shack (273-241C), cut a round hole in the top of the cabinet, and mounted the fan. We first used a compass to draw a circle the same diameter as the inside diameter of the fan on the top shelf of the bookshelf. Next we drilled a hole inside the circle big enough to insert the blade of a jigsaw. We then used the jigsaw to cut a hole by following the guideline drawn by the compass.

The fan came with pigtail ends for wiring. By cutting off the socket end of the 6' extension cord, we spliced the pigtails to the end of the extension cord, and insulated the connection with heat shrink tubing (also available at Radio Shack). The advantage to using heat shrink tubing is that it makes a very tight connection, which is unlikely to come loose and pose a fire hazard.

Lastly we centered the fan to the hole we cut out of the top shelf, and attached to the bottom side of the top shelf using four 2 ½ inch dry wall type screws. When attaching the fan, we made sure that the airflow of the fan was directed upward.

Cutting holes for the AirFarm units

In this cabinet we decided to mount two AirFarm™ hydroponic systems. This cabinet is ideal for the AirFarm, since it allows the bottom of the AirFarm to be suspended above the floor high enough so that they can be drained into a standard 1-gallon plastic jug. To mount the AirFarm hydroponic systems, we used a pencil to trace the edges of the planter on the second shelf of the bookshelf. Then using the method we employed earlier when mounting the fan, we first drilled a starter hole inside the outline, and then used a jigsaw to cut out the holes in which to place the AirFarms.

On the other hand, you could mount any kind of container you like into the shelf, since this cabinet is compatible with virtually any hydroponic system. In fact, you could cut holes for terra cotta or plastic flowerpots and simply grow your plants in potting soil, if you prefer. Or, even skip the holes and grow your plants in plastic flats. The choice is yours.

Attaching the sides, back, and doors

The back and sides are made of ¼ inch plywood, and were attached using brads (short nails). The cabinet hinges and screws were purchased for about $10 from a local hardware store.

Installing the Light Fixture

One of the keys to the success of the plant cabinet is the light source. By using compact florescent bulbs, we can saturate the inside of the cabinet with enough light to grow any plant, even tomatoes and hot peppers.

These bulbs provide a tremendous amount of light both for their wattage and their physical size. The wattage we recommend is 25w, which will give out about 1,500 lumens per bulb. With the bulbs, your plants will receive 4,500 lumens in a 2 square foot area. This intensive light, along with other proper conditions, will cause vigorous plant growth. We have tried Philips, Lights of America, and Sylvania brands and have found no real difference. So, buy whichever is least expensive. You should be able to find these bulbs for between $12-20 each, depending where you shop. Large warehouse type hardware stores (not to mention names) will usually give you a better price.

We created a light fixture, by taking three porcelain sockets and wiring them together. Again, we cut the socket end off an extension cord (in this case a 9 foot cord), and connect the three sockets in parallel. We then attached the sockets to a length of 2 x 4.

From there we attached hooks to the 2 x 4, tied a piece of nylon cord to each hook, and then threaded them through eye hooks that we screwed into the top of the cabinet, and finally tied the cords to curtain cleats that we screwed into the back of the cabinet. This allows us to adjust the height of the lamps as necessary.

Finishing

To finish the project, you need to apply aluminum foil or Mylar to the inside of the cabinet. Beware of using a staple gun, as the staples tend to penetrate the plywood. Double-faced tape is preferable.

Next plug the lights and the fan into a timer. You should leave the lights on 16 hours per day, or less if you are trying to force the plant to flower. The fan can either be put on the timer or can be left on 24 hours per day.

Lastly, you can sand and paint or stain the exterior of the cabinet to give it a nicer appearance. We recommend stains that contain polyurethane, since it gives the wood a nice finish with fewer coats.

Author's Notes

I've been using this cabinet for over a year and find that it is great fun. It has served as an excellent compromise between hydroponic gardening under intense grow lights and enjoying the room in which the plants grow, without being disturbed by harsh, unnatural light.

The cabinet has provided us with tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, basil, and hot peppers. Our next crop to try will be strawberries. I'll keep you posted.

Also, I would like to give special thanks to Sagi Ronen for his help with the cabinet's construction.

If you have any questions about this project or have other hydroponic gardening questions, please send me an email: davemc@microfarm.com

PLEASE visit our online store http://www.microfarm.com