Considering the moody economy, we need to root around for every tasty tax morsel that will help us close our books — and hopefully keep some cash in our pockets. For sage advice in this area, I turned to Ed Burke, an investment advisor at Linsco Private Ledger with a passion for finance and a knack at explaining its many intricacies. He has undergraduate and graduate degrees in Finance and holds the Chartered Financial Analyst designation from the Association of Investment Management & Research. Ed is also a member of the Boston Security Analysts Society and worked as an analyst prior to his current role as an independent investment advisor.
Below are a few golden tax nuggets Ed unearthed.
Harvest your losses.
Looked at your losses lately? Pouring over quarterly stock or mutual fund statements isn’t anyone’s idea of a good time anymore. Can you say your heart doesn’t pound a little harder now when your statement arrives? Or that you don’t draw a deeper breath before painfully scanning the minus signs and quickly burying the bad news? File under Depressing.
Believe it or not, investment losses on your taxable investments aren’t always a lost cause. Like slews of investors, you may own an assortment of individual stocks and growth-oriented mutual funds outside of a retirement account (which you won’t pay taxes on until you retire and start withdrawing). It’s probably not far-fetched to say that some of those investments turned out to be dogs (and whose portfolio isn’t looking like a kennel these days?).
On the other hand, some of your other growth investments may have actually done what they were designed to do. Grow. If that’s the case, you’ll owe capital gains taxes on your profits or “gains” (versus the individual income taxes you owe on bank, bond or money market interest, dividends and salary). Here’s where you can call out the dogs, sell them and use the losses you to offset those gains.
Say, for example, that you invested $2,000 in your favorite stock two years ago and it’s now worth a piddling $500. If you sell the stock, the $1,500 loss can offset $1,500 in gains from investments that were good to you. If you “realize” only $1,000 in gains, you can use the remaining $500 loss to reduce your taxable income and, therefore, your overall taxes. In fact, current tax law lets you reduce your taxable income by up to $3,000 in losses each year. If you have more than $3,000 in net losses, you can simply carry forward the excess to offset future gains and/or income until it’s gone.
Keep this in mind: If you sold your lackluster stocks and mutual funds before the end of 2002, you can apply the losses to your taxes this spring. If you’re considering unloading the duds in 2003, you’ll need to wait until next tax season to put your losses to use.
Harvesting your losses to offset gains may not assuage your guilt over investments gone bad, but it does offer a little silver lining.
Home is where the tax breaks are.
While growth investments have been suffering, the real estate market has maintained vital signs, even thrived. So, if you’re looking for another tax strategy, you may be sitting on (or in) it. Here’s how it works…
If you’re considering downsizing — or if being laid off gives you a new freedom to finally get out of town — you could reap valuable tax benefits when you sell your home if you’ve lived there at least two out of five years and used it as your primary residence.
More specifically, if you’re single and sell your house, up to $250,000 of the gains from that sale are tax-free. If you’re married, the amount jumps to $500,000. So, if you’re unmarried, bought a house three years ago for $100,000 and just sold it for $400,000, only $50,000 of the $300,000 gain is taxable. If you’re married, you pay zero taxes since you get a tax break built for two. That’s one big chunk of money that’s not just tax-deductible at tax time, but totally tax-free. Zip, zilch, nada goes anywhere but into your own pocket.
Rothify!
If you’re gainfully employed and your company offers a 401(k), keep it fully fueled. Aim to max out your contributions — or at least contribute enough to clinch any employer match that's offered (where else are you going to find a 100 percent return on your money?!).
If you’re unemployed or freelancing and your 401(k) still resides with your last employer, don’t let it live there too long. Ed Burke generally suggests moving 401(k) money into a rollover IRA account since “you get a massive universe of mutual funds to choose from instead of 10 or 12 choices usually offered in a 401(k). And with greater investment flexibility, you may want to switch to a more conservative strategy — especially if you think you might need to tap your account in the near future.”
Whether you’re looking to roll over your 401(k) or simply want to make a fresh retirement plan contribution for the year, here are two IRA options to mull over:
Tax-deductible IRA. If you contribute to this traditional breed of IRA, you can deduct the contribution amount from your taxable income and thereby whittle down your taxes. However, if you need to dip into your account before retirement, you could get whacked hard with taxes and penalties.
Roth IRA. The Roth has been steadily gaining fans despite the fact that, unlike the traditional IRA, you don’t garner any immediate tax benefits. Still, investors are attracted to the idea that, in most cases, future withdrawals are not subject to taxes. Just picture the tax bill you could face as your account keeps compounding over several years or decades. Now picture not paying that tax bill because your money is in a Roth.
Fortunately, you don’t need to wait years to benefit. The Roth IRA lets you carve into your original contribution tax- and penalty-free at any time since it consists entirely of after-tax dollars.
But watch out: Any amount you withdraw above your total contribution may be subject to penalties. This will depend on your age and whether you’re using the money for a special situation under the Roth such as becoming disabled or making a first-time home purchase (up to a max of $10,000).
If you currently own a traditional IRA, now may be the time to convert to a Roth if you’re leaning that way. Since account values are dropping like lead balloons, you’ll pay less in taxes when you convert. Then, when the market rebounds, your money (fingers crossed) will regain its value and continue growing in a non-taxable environment. After the required five-year wait on conversions, taxes and penalties drop away and you can start siphoning from your account.
Word of warning: Try to avoid paying conversion taxes directly from your IRA. You’ll not only lose the power of compounding on the amount you take out, you’ll also get hit with early withdrawal penalties if you’re under age 59 1/2. Converting to a Roth makes the most sense if you pay taxes by good, old-fashioned check instead.
Whether you're interested in saving through a traditional IRA or a Roth, here’s how much you may contribute by April 15 of 2002 and beyond. If you’re over 50, you also get the benefit of making additional “catch-up” contributions each year.
| Year |
IRA Contribution Limit |
Catch-up Contribution |
|
2002 |
$3,000 |
$500 |
|
2003 |
$3,000 |
$500 |
|
2004 |
$3,000 |
$500 |
|
2005 |
$4,000 |
$500 |
|
2006 |
$4,000 |
$1,000 |
|
2007 |
$4,000 |
$1,000 |
|
2008 + |
$5,000 (adjusted for inflation) |
$1,000 |
With tips such as these to sink your teeth into, when tax seasons relentlessly roll in year after year, you may find them less taxing on both your wallet and emotional health.
This information is intended as a general overview. Please consult a tax professional regarding your own circumstances and the appropriate application of tax law.
Maureen Corrigan independently writes for a variety of industries including finance, healthcare and entertainment. You can contact her at mcorrigan@dropofink.com.